Sunday, March 20, 2011

Cocktail Chat | Serving Size

I decided that I would include a few longer form entries as I go.  They'll break from the micro-fiction limit of 250 words for these.  Not that any of the other entries have met that goal, save one.  But I'm trying.  Anyway, there's a lot of great information, history, factoids in Harrington & Moorhead's text that just can't make it into the cocktail review entries.  Thus I'm inventing the intercalary "Cocktail Chat".  To Serving Size...

One of the things that has drawn me to this endeavor is Harrington & Moorhead's underlying premise that for true enjoyment restraint and balance should be restored to the art and craft of cocktailing.  In relating the history of this class of beverages, they illuminate changes from the beverages and the culture of the cocktail's "classic period" to today.  Back in the day, a cocktail was an aperitif, meant to stimulate the taste buds and the appetite prior to a meal.  And based on our 4 samples thus far, they stimulate warm buzzes and conversation within and between imbibers as well!  Cocktails were not meant to be veritable bowls of liquor.  "Cocktails don't overwhelm the appetite in advance of a meal.  The misaligned trend of marketing 12-ounce Martinis only encourages drinkers to finish settled, lukewarm cocktails -- they may have come for dinner, but by the final gulp, they're more likely to need a tall glass of ice water and cab ride home" (3).

Last Friday night we came face-to-face with this exact condition.  We had dinner at one of our favorite bistros.  Our regular server -- not knowing about our new project -- simply brought us our usual:  Ketel One with several olives.  Usually we take it on the rocks.  Friday he brought them up.  And the above quote was exactly our experience.  Now we are not teetotalers by any stretch.  But there was so much booze in those glasses we still had leftover Martinis on the table even as the wine was being poured with our entrees.  Before they were even half finished The Partner was scooping ice from his water to his Martini glass to bring the vodka back up to tepid.  With apps, a bottle of wine, entrée & a split dessert, it was no small blessing to be only steps from a corner from which to hail a cab.  "Date Nite over.  Take us home!"

In the two weeks since starting this adventure, we've already become somewhat accustomed to the much more modest portions that decant when using Harrington & Moorhead's proportions.  And we've found we're no less worse for the wear.  I'd even go so far as to say, the comfortable buzz that comes from proper, more restrained servings of these potent brews is much more enjoyable than the hammer blow that comes from a tankard of Ketel.  We even get to enjoy it cold … all the way to the bottom of the glass!  When was the last time you had an empty glass that was still frosty?  How nice!  With smaller servings one can have a second and be nice and warm and comfy with room and wherewithal for dinner.  There you go.  Aperitif accomplished.

Info for your next cocktail party:  Did you know there's supposed to be a volume of empty space below the lip of the glass?  Did you know this volume has a name?  Neither did we!  According to Harrington and Moorhead it's called the collar.  And according to custom & skilled bartending, it should be at least a 1/4 inch from the lip of the glass.  We can see exactly how crazy serving sizes have become.  Go back and look at the pictures posted thus far.  The Manhattan & Astoria are in contemporary Martini glasses.  They're practically empty and make me feel like the stingy pour.  Then look at the photos of the Cuba Libre and the Bronx.  Those were served in glassware we inherited from our grandparents.  The glasses are full to within the proper distance of the collar.

Get ready for the next round.  This weekend's all about the Champagne cocktails! Ha-ha!

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